Khajuraho

Excursion

The architectural style of the Khajuraho temples is very different from the temple prototype of that period. Each stands, instead of within the customary enclosure, on a high masonry platform. Combined with the upward direction of the structure, which is further accentuated by vertical projections, the total effect is one of grace and lightness, reminiscent of the Himalayan peaks. Each of the chief compartments has its own roof, grouped in such a way that the highest is in the centre, the lowest over the portico, a triumph of skill and imagination in recreating the rising peaks of a range. The temples of Khajuraho are divided into three geographical groups: Western, Eastern and Southern.

[ The Western Group Temples | The Eastern Group Temples | The Southern Group Temples | State Museum of Tribal & Folk Arts | Dhubela Museum | Rajgarh Palace | Panna | Panna National Park | Kalinjar Fort | Ajaygarh Fort | Ramvan | Nachna ]

The Western Group is certainly the most famous, because it is to this group that the largest and most typical Khajuraho temple belongs to.

• The Khandariya Mahadev. The largest most typical of Khajuraho's temples, it soars 31 metre high. Dedicated to Shiva, the sanctum enshrines a linga. The main shrine is exquisitely carved, and features in delicate detail, gods, goddesses, celestial maidens and lovers. The shrine is perfectly symmetrical and it soars upto 31 km high. Though the four temples that stand at the corners of the main shrine are now in ruins. Beyond the archway of the Kandariya Mahadev, lie the six interior compartments: the portico, main hall, transept, vestibule, sanctum and ambulatory. The ceilings are particularly noteworthy and the pillars supporting them have intricately carved capitals. The transept's outer walls have three horizontal panels showing deities of the Hindu pantheon, and groups of lovers, who are a pageant of sensuousness, which seemto be vibrantly alive.
  
  
• Also in the western group is the Chaunsat Yogini, the only granite temple in the Khajuraho group. Dedicated to Kali, it is also unique in being quadrangular in plan. Only 35 of the original 65 cells remain and no image of Kali has survived, since this is the earliest surviving shrine of the group dated to 900 AD. Another Kali Temple (originally dedicated to Vishnu) is the Devi Jagadamba Temple.
  
  
• Facing eastwards to the rising sun, the temple is dedicated to the sun god, Surya and it is known as the Chitragupta Temple. The image of the deity in the inner sanctum is particularly imposing. It is a five feet high image and is seen driving a seven-horsed chariot. The group scenes depicted are equally spectacular, including the royal processions, elephant-fights, hunting scenes, group dances. The lavish lifestyle of the Chandela kings and their court is seen here in all its pomp and glory.
  
  
• Similar in plan to the Kandariya Mahadev is the Vishwanath Temple. A three-headed image of Brahma is enshrined in this temple. The approach is equally impressive with lions flanking the northern and elephants the southern steps that lead up to the temple. The exteriors are profusely carved. Facing the shrine is a Nandi Temple with a massive, 6-ft high Nandi bull.
  
  
• Since the first few Chandela rulers were devotees of Vishnu, there are some important Vaishnavite temples in the Khajuraho group, the finest of which is the Lakshmana Temple. The lintel over the entrance shows the trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva, with Lakshmi, Vishnu's consort. The sanctum is richly carved and has a three-headed idol of Vishnu's incarnations, Narsimha and Varaha.
  
  
• The boar incarnation also appears in another Vaishnavite shrine, the Varaha Temple. The statue here is a mammoth 9-ft high one, its surface covered with figures from the Hindu Pantheon.
  
  
• The Khajuraho temples are no longer living places of worship, with a few exceptions. The Matangeswara Temple for example is still a place of worship. Dedicated to Shiva it has an 8-ft high lingam.

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The Eastern Group comprises of the Hindu and the Jain temples, which lie close to the Khajuraho village.

• Parswanath is the largest Jain temple in this group. Exquisite in detail, the sculptures on the northern outer wall make this temple perhaps the finest in the group. The themes of these carvings are the timeless ones of every day, mortal activity. The master craftsmen of Khajuraho display here their deep understanding of the trifles that make up a human life. Within, the sanctum has a throne, which faces a bull, which is the emblem of the first tirthankara, Adinath. The actual image of Parswanath from which the temple derives its name was installed as recently as 1860.
  
  
• The Ghantai Temple is also another Jain temple in the eastern group. Though almost in ruins, it still bears an evidence of its original splendour. Particularly, arresting is the frieze, which depicts, in graphic detail, the 16 dreams of Mahavira's mother and a multi-armed Jain goddess riding on a winged Garuda.
  
  
• The Adinatha Temple, is in the north of the Parswanath, but is a more modestly sized temple. Dedicated to the Jain saint, Adinath, the temple is lavishly embellished with sculpted figures, including yakshis.
  
  
• The three Hindu temples in the eastern group are the Brahma, Vamana and Javari Temples. Double rows of apsaras, celestial nymphs, adorn the outer walls of the Vamana temple. A variety of sensuous attitudes give credibility to the theory that Khajuraho's erotica were meant to test the devotees who came to worship their gods at the temples.

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The Southern Group of temples lies 5 km away from the Khajuraho village.

• The fine Chaturbhuj Temple in this group has a massive intricately carved image of Vishnu in the sanctum.
  
  
• Duladeo Temple, another of the southern group, is a little away from the road to the Jain group of temples. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva, and the apsaras along with the ornamented figures are the temple's most striking features.

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State Museum of Tribal & Folk Arts
A fine collection of masterpieces of tribal and folk art and artifacts from all over Madhya Pradesh is on display at the Chandela Cultural Complex. The tradition of tribal and folk arts and crafts has evolved over centuries. It represents the best of Indian culture and tradition and its synthesis with foreign cultures that came through trade and invasions.

The State Museum has more than 500 representative items of terracotta, metal craft, woodcraft, tribal and folk paintings, tattoos, jewellery and masks.

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Dhubela Museum
This museum is located on the bank of a lake and is 57-kms away from the village. The museum houses a wide variety of Shakti Cult sculptures. There are different sections on garments, weapons and paintings.

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Rajgarh Palace
It is a striking 150-year-old palace and is now being converted into a heritage hotel

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Panna
This place is about 44 km from Khajuraho. It is a historical town and is also known for its temples.

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Panna National Park
Complimenting the man made perfection of the Khajuraho temples, is the dramatic scenic splendour of Panna National Park, just 32 km away. A mere 30-minute drive away from Khajuraho and extending over 543 km, spread along the banks of the River Ken, the park's topography is a magnificent one of the deep ravines, tranquil valley and dense teak forests. During the monsoons, the park is a lush green heaven with cascading waterfalls.

The park's area includes the former shooting reserves of the former royal state of Panna and Chhattarpur and the jungles today harbour many species of wildlife. The tiger can be glimpsed here, along with other rare species such as the Leopard, Wolf and Gharial. Most likely, it will be here if the Caracal, a vanishing cousin of the extinct Cheetah, is ever sighted. Herds of Blue Bulls, Chinkaras and Sambars are a common sight. The Wild Boar, the Sloth Bear, the Cheetal, the Chowsingha, the Indian Fox, the Porcupine, and a host of lesser fauna are also seen. A separate sanctuary for Gharial has been set up. The park can also boast of the highest density of the Paradise FlyCatchers.

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Kalinjar Fort
This fort is about 100 km away from Khajuraho. The fort stands on an isolated hill of the Vindhya Range and 38 km away from Attara railway station. The fort was built during the period of the Guptas. Later, the Chandela ruler Yasovarman captured it in the middle of the 10th century.

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Ajaygarh Fort
It is a very old fort, which is built at a height of 688 metres. It is also 36 km from Panna. It was the capital of the Chandelas during their decline. Chhatrasal gave it to his son Shri Jagat Raj in 1731.

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Ramvan
It is a small museum housing a large collection of Tulsidas' manuscripts, the remains of the Barhut Stupa (2nd century BC) and early medieval and Gupta sculptures.

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Nachna
40 km from Panna, Nachna was a famous city of the Nagvakataka and Gupta Empire. It is known for the Chaturmukha Mahadev temple named after the colossal four-faced lingam, which is still enshrined inside.

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